Tuesday, December 1, 2009
The Meat???
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
The Fact of the Matter
Sometimes reflection time can be difficult. When one realizes a paradigm such as this they ten to ask: “What is the meaning?” Thus I have spent countless, sleepless hours pondering over what this says about me. Does it indicate anything about my personality? Why small boys? Why not girls? Why not the intellectuals? In an effort not to be self-deprecating I have tried to make the best of these circumstances. I mean, who really wants to be surrounded by a group of pubescent teenage girls in a locale where deodorant is not common and there is no conception of personal space? Maybe once in a while, but not everyday. That could get tiring; however, somehow Jason has persevered. And a group of twenty year old dudes who speak english perfectly. This could be fun, but I want to speak darija now. I was just in college. I lived in a frat. I was surrounded by enough english speaking dudes there. I want a change. What could be better than prepubescent boys?
The paradigm displayed itself in full force last weekend. Jason, Donniel, and I ventured to a local soccer game on Saturday. As girls do not venture out of the house often, you might be asking how Jason is always surrounded by groups of them. When he teaches english at the dar chebab his class is composed of 98% giggling, teenage girls. However, outside of this environment there are not groups of girls. Donniell is usually the only female out and about: at soccer games and at cafes. However, even at the soccer game, which was void of any female, save Donniel, Jason was being attacked by girls. During the game Jason was receiving love letters from various females around town while simultaneously trying to decide if he should accept an invitation to dinner. This invitation was given to him by a girl that had just professed her love for him. Though life slugger! Donniell was watching the soccer game with the boys, speaking english, and continually answering questions about grammar, vocabulary, and syntax. And there I stood, surrounded by a pack of 25, twelve year olds spit-firing darija at me. Laughing, playing, making huge hand gestures, and having fun. When we left the game the pack followed us. It literally looked like an army. In fact it was kind of scary. I would have wet myself if I didn’t know that I had complete control over those little rascals. Can someone say Peter the Great, eh?
So, back to the question. What does this say about my personality? Hadi asaada d lhqeeqa! (This is the hour of truth!) I guess as a youth developer attracting kids is not a bad quality to have. Additionally, I’ll be the first to admit that I’m still a bit of a kid. I like playing, running around, making loud noises, and creating havoc. These are all things I knew about myself before I came to Morocco. I guess those qualities have become more clear in this country. In the end, I’m very happy. This quality should make it easy to attract kids to the dar chebab in my new town. Not having to worry about that is awesome. However, I came to Morocco to grow up a bit. Being surrounded constantly by a pack of 12 year-olds does not facilitate that very well. I suppose some things never change!
Wxxa. Now a few photos...
A cute little Moroccan!
Donniell's family and Jason. All the girls are obsessed with him.
Our host families... that is my host family plus a smattering from Jason and Donniell's.
My younger brother Youssef and I.
Monday, October 26, 2009
PICTURES
The tanneries in Fez. Sex Panther, the musk Paul Rudd wears in the movie Anchorman comes to mind here...
Jason, my host brother, a friend, and I at the rear end of the lion in Fez. Everybody was taking pictures of the head. We wanted to be different.
Jason and I with the bride and groom at a wedding. Don't worry, they are having fun. It is customary for the married couple not to smile during this part of the ceremony.
The souk. Six days out of the week it looks like this, but on Wednesdays it is crowded with all kinds of vendors selling chickens, fruits, vegetables, clothes, and tools.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Part 2: Another Wedding
(For lack of a better transition...) I woke up and met some other PCTs in Sefrou. The plan for the day was a leisurely hike up a mountain to visit a small Amazigh (Berber) village. I wore sandals and carried my lunch (bread, cheese, and water) in a purple plastic bag. Sunglasses on and ready to go, about 15 PCTs followed one of the local Sefrouians up the mountain. Apparently we were literally hiking in his backyard as his grandfather owned the farm land. After about an hour and a half of hiking in beautiful scenery (rolling, green hills and clear sky) we stumbled upon a small group of people who our Moroccan friend knew. They we all holding small round fruit looking things which turned out to be figs. We were offered these delicious fruits and devoured them. We were then invited up to the house. I must remind you here that we were hiking in the countryside. This was the first house we stumbled upon and there was not another in site. Basically, we were pretty isolated. Because of this, I was not expecting to find much of anything. However, as we approached this house it became evident that something was happening.
When we walked behind the house we saw a large rectangular tent with a flat blue tarp as a roof. The walls we constructed of colorful blankets with sequins all over them. Under the tent sat a large group of people on top of psychedelic carpets. Apparently, Jimi Hendrix has still not left the country. As is usually, the men were sitting on one side of the tent and the girls on the opposite side. We were invited into the tent and then quickly discovered that it was a wedding. The bride sat on the opposite side of the tent in full regalia and, as is customary in Moroccan weddings, was not smiling at all. Needless to say the wedding attendees were just as surprised to find 15 Americans as we were to be sitting in a tent that I can only describe as “Disneyland-esque”. Then the drumming and singing began. The singing was all in Amazigh. However, you can dance in any language. All of the PCTs got up, began clapping, and danced. It was great. We learned some new techniques. A little line dancing, some shoulder shrugs, and complex hand-holding! The night clubs in New York are not going to see this one coming. But in 25 months when I return... LOOK OUT.
After some group dancing, they asked for two volunteers. Two of my fellow PCTs were dressed in classic Amazigh garb sat down and, for lack of a better term, married. We sang and danced around them and all had a bit of Henna placed on the palm of our right hand which apparently indicates you are engaged or will be married some day. I’m not sure of the exact definition... I should probably check that out since I use that hand to wave everyday and the Henna is not disappearing anytime soon. I don’t want to give any Moroccan the wrong idea. After the “fake” marriage we were offered tea. We drank a bit of tea and then politely excused ourselves as we needed to continue our hike.
We ventured a bit further down the trail to a very small Amazigh village. There we dinned on our bread, cheese, and water. We rode a horse around the town for a bit and then decided to begin our hike back. When we passed the house that was holding the wedding, our friends invited us back to dine with them. In Morocco its really really really hard to refuse an invitation, especially for food. Thus, we graciously accepted. When we reached the grand tent again everybody had left. It was empty, save a few older men. We all entered the tent and tables were brought in. Then a large couscous dish with a sweet raisin, chickpea sauce, a turkey and lamb tagine, and a huge bowl of grapes were brought out to the tables. We feasted for about a half an hour on the delicious, very authentic (the lamb and turkey were raised on their property) cuisine of Morocco. Anthony Bourdain would be jealous.
Forget the freshmen 15, Im putting on the Moroccan 40. The consumption of food in this country seems to be continuous and never ending. On a side note, its still about 80 degrees here everyday which is AWESOME, except for the fact that Im in a classroom from 830 a.m. until 6 p.m.
Hope all is well in the states!
al-mSafr dyal hamar al-magrib f - merika
Anyway, I figured I was the only person with such an odd obsession. Some of the other trainees have fascinations, but no one, save me, has hit the obsessive stage yet. Since this was true I figured no native Moroccan would have an obsession such as mine. However, I could not have been more wrong. The host dad of the friend that I was visiting in Immouzar seemed to have the same sort of love for this most prestigious animal. The conversation started with the fact that Obama won the nobel Peace Prize. We then progressed to the ever antagonizing question of why the democratic party chose the donkey as its symbol. I have since read literature on this... a link for your enjoyment.... Anyway, the donkey is supposedly chosen last by all of the other animals. Why? It is a very smart animal. There seems no real plausible explanation other than the cunning nature of the donkey. Yes. Donkeys are cunning. Basically we talked for a while about how donkeys are not given enough credit. They are great animals and, according to my friend’s host dad, the second animal to roam the earth; finishing only behind good ol’ Adam and Eve.
Then my friend’s host dad decided to take the conversation in a rather interesting direction. Imagine a small, dark-skinned, older Moroccan man. He turns his head toward you and says (in Darija) “There should be a movie about a Moroccan donkey’s travels in America. We can dress him in all different costumes. We can put funny large glasses on him. We can die parts of his hair different colors. Its going to be incredible. I will write the story. We can go around taking pictures of him in all of the big cities.” Me, being an avid admirer of this grand creature, saw this opportunity and ran. My friend and I proceeded to sort out the details of this fantastic story with this older Moroccan gentleman. We have the donkey staying primarily on the east coast: D.C, New York, Boston. However, we also planned a short excursion to the west. Most notably the trip to Los Angeles where our beloved equine will don long blonde hair and round John Lennon sun glasses. Mark your calenders as the movie should be going into production in late 2011.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
A "BROment"
I visited the Hammam yesterday with my host brother. I have been to a hammam once before in my life. I went when I was in Turkey on my Foreign Study Program in college. Everybody wore red towels around there lower parts and had a private changing room. When you went into the hot room it was a large area with soap flowing all over the ground like fog rolling on the lochs of scotland. Steam rose from the ground around a beautiful, marble circular platform. Surrounding this platform stood large Turkish men who pointed to you, tossed you on your side, and then kneaded your back like the muffin man kneads bread... no wait, muffins. I expected something kind of similar here in my small Moroccan hamlet. I knew however, that the hammam would not be as large as the one in Istanbul nor as high class (they made fresh orange juice for you when you were all clean). So I was not expecting the orange juice, but I thought the set up would be similar: large Moroccan dudes who scrubbed and massaged you for a small fee.
Needless to say, I was in for a bit of a surprise as the hammam in rural Morocco was nothing like the one in Turkey. Despite the element of surprise, it was a most amazing time and an extremely close bonding experience for my host brother and I. You can say we became better acquainted at the hammam. Here’s a run down.
You pay eight dirhams when you enter which equates to about one american dollar. Then you walk up a bunch of steps and enter a changing room. Everybody baths in their underwear. I was quite happy about this as it avoided the whole awkward nudity thing. However, this is where my one cultural faux pas of the night occurred. I was unknowingly wearing my bright pick underwear with running beer cans and “Case Race” plastered all over them. Needless to say, this is definitely “haram” in a muslim country. Everybody in the hammam saw me wearing them. Hopefully they didn’t understand what it meant as they couldn’t read it. However, I still feel a bit guilty and was conscious of the debauchery my underwear stood for throughout the entire time I was bathing.
Anyway, after I stripped down to my underwear I followed my host brother into the other room. Basically, it was a medium sized tile room that was really steamy. There were guys scrubbing themselves. And yes. The floor was extremely slippery. I almost fell about four times throughout the entire experience. Each time was followed by a bit of laughter from all of the other men in the hammam. Anyway, the process goes like this. You fill up four or five buckets with with hot water, adding a bit of cold water so that you don’t burn yourself. Then you bring your buckets to an area in the room. Sit down on the floor and use a cup to pour water over your head. In between the cups of water you wash yourself with soap, do pushups (OH YEA), and shampoo your hair.
Then it started getting interesting. My host brother told me to lie face down on the ground... so I did. Then he started walking on my back. He’s probably 6 foot 5 inches tall and well-built. I had all of that weight on my back, crushing my lungs, my rib cage, and my dignity. I tried to clench my abs to make sure he didn’t crush me, but I’m pretty sure that I was ineffective as I have some purple marks on my stomach today. After he ravaged my back he sat me up, had me spread my legs as wide as I could, and then pushed my head down towards the floor as far as he could. This was a huge spine stretch. I figured this was normal, and it was... kind of. But then he mounted me. Yes. I believe mount is the right word. I was still spread eagle with my back bent and head towards the floor. I looked like some sort of naked rag doll. He straddled my back, with his legs between mine and then lubed me down with oil. After I was greased up, he started to scrub. It was an interesting combination of pain and pleasure.... and dead skin. First he did my back, then my arms, and finally my stomach. For my stomach he stretched me into an almost yoga-esque back bend position and then went to town.
After he finished I thanked him and, I must admit, with a bit of reluctance I offered to scrub him. I think I did a fairly good job at scrubbing; however, I ran into a major difficulty along the way. There was a bit of an obvious height issue. My legs are short. His torso is long. Consequently, when he was sitting spread eagle and I was straddling him from above my precious objects may or may not have grazed his head on multiple occasions. In fact, I am positive this happened. My host brother either decided to ignore this inevitably awkward situation or he is accustomed to being this close to his compadres. I want to believe the former is the case; however, it is quite possible that the latter holds the truth. Despite these moments he continually offered me words of encouragement, releasing the usual “muzyan... muzyan” (GOOD GOOD). When I finished he told me I was a first class scrubber!
When the scrubbing had ceased we did some more stretching and then soaped up. We rinsed off and then went to the outer room which, at this point, felt like an ice box. Here we changed and then went back home. Walking home my host brother put his arm around me and called me brother. That was a truly a heart-warming experience. I feel like we are really bonding... both on the obvious physical level and also on the emotional level as well. They are a great family and I am blessed to live with them for these two months. If you come visit me you will certainly meet them. On the same note, when I left to go to Azrou both of my host brothers said they were going to miss me. Then they proceeded to give me hugs: alternating hugs for about three minutes... another humorous moment.
Good times. Salaam.
P.S. My new Moroccan name is Bilal. There's a history to this, but that must wait for another time.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Wedding Crashers!!!!!!
However, they will not tell you about a Moroccan wedding... at least I do not think they will. And that my friends will be the topic of this post. A mere four nights ago I was invited to a wedding and my life in my town has not been the same since. I really had no idea what I was getting myself into when I agreed to attend this wedding. I really enjoy weddings though. They are always fun. People are happy; people are a little buzzed; people lose inhibitions; people dance; people retire at around 1 a.m. Thos have been my experiences at American weddings. My brother and I usually carry the party. We start the dancing, lead the the congo line, and serve as the best unpaid entertainment you could ask for.
I knew that there would be no alcohol at this wedding... thats about all I knew. I was ready to go at six p.m. Thats a reasonable time for an evening wedding to start, eh? Well I was much mistaken and ended up sitting on the couch for about three and a half hours. We did not leave until 9:30 p.m. When we arrived at the site of the wedding we entered an enclosed field. In the field were two tents. It was explained to me that one tent was for the men and the other was for the women. However, I saw only men around. There were no women to be seen. I felt a little unhappy as I was expecting to meet some Moroccan women at the wedding... Again, it was explained to me that the women were currently eating dinner. I sat around in the tent for a while and then was told to get up. THE WOMEN WERE RETURNING. THE WOMEN WERE RETURNING. I stood up and left the tent as the women were entering. Apparently, since the women were finished eating it was now time for the men to eat.
I sat around a small table with 8 people I did not know. However, this was alright since nobody talked. Even the people who knew each other did not speak a word. The purpose of this meal was clear: EAT; as FAST as you can; and as MUCH as you can. Our table finished two chickens and half of a lamb in about ten minutes. Immediately when the food was gone everbody stood up and proceeded back to the tents.
I walked to the mens tent and sat down. I was handed a cup of coffee and practically forced to drink it. They said I would need it. At this point it was just about midnight. No sign of the bride or groom yet. However, there are a ton of Moroccan women sitting in their tent. All of the men were in our tent. I could feel that something was going to happen soon. Then the music starts blasting... something was happening. Everybody rushed outside the tents. The bride was being paraded in a throne that rested on the shoulders of four men in maroon suits and fez hats. Once the bride and groom entered the tent the dancing started. However, the bride and groom did not dance. Nay! They sat on a large couch and watched everybody else dance.
My friend Jason and I decided we should start dancing. At Moroccan weddings; however, the dancing is separated by the sexes. Men dance in one area and women in another. There is really no mixing. So, needless to say I danced with dudes for about five hours stright. Yep. Jason, me, and a bunch of Moroccan dudes we met danced from midnight until five a.m... It was a ton of fun, but took a while to get accustomed to. When I was breaking it down the father of the bride came over and started dancing with me. The big Marriage Camera followed him. We danced for about ten minutes... and I am positive that I am on their marriage video.
It was a fun night. And now everytime I see the father of the bride around town he does a little dance as a form if hello. Heres to making friends with the locals!
Salaam
Saturday, September 19, 2009
THE CBT
In the afternoons we have visited the gendarmes, got lost in the town, and gone to the cyber cafe. Im in a small village near fez and am having an amazing experience. The people here are so welcoming and accomodating. For example, as you may know it is ramadan. During this holiday muslims fast during the day and eat at night. I myself have been fasting the past couple days and it is pretty difficult. However, when we first arrived in the town it was impossible to fast. Everyone was offering us food at all hours of the day. In fact my first host family practically forced me to eat before they broke the fast. While I was eating they sat around and watched repeating the word kul, kul, which means EAT. This was one of the first words I learned here as it is probably the most used. After having experienced fasting, I do not think I would have the will power to watch somebody else eat. I suppose they were just very excited to have a new face in there house.
We are not quite sure what we will actually be doing here. The dar chebab in this town, according to the gendarme, is closed. So our first task might be to open it and draw people to it with a series of events: sport, theater, english classes, etc. We are meeting with the person who runs the dar chebab on Monday so I think we will have a better idea what kind of work we will be doing after that meeting. However, it appears that some members of the community are aware or our presence. On my walk to the language session this morning I met a local who is probably around my age. His english was excellent. He apparently knew what I was doing. He told me, out of the blue, that he was excited I would be teaching english at the dar chebab. He works as a mason in town and his favorite language is english. He looks like he could be a great asset to the dar chebab and someone who could teach english in the future, in shaallah. And so it appears we have at least one task ahead of us.
Currently, Im most excited for the end of Ramadan. Not because the fasting will end, although this will be a huge perk, but because Im going into the old medinat in Fez for the Eid el Fitr on either Sunday or Monday. Since we not yet sure when Ramadan will end, as it is based on the phases of the moon, the eid could fall on either day. My host family is taking me along with them for the huge feast and to meet the rest of the extended family. If their family is anything like mine this is bound to be an interesting, exciting, facinating, and wild experience. Anyway, I will try to update my blog after that with some pictures and hopefully funny, but most likely embarrasing, anecdotes.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words
An attempt at an artistic self portrait. This is what most of the buildings we've encountered so far look like. This was taken at about 8 a.m. The shadows in the bottom right corner are Ben and I.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Ants in Pants
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Pictures
Marhaban from Mehdia!
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
BODYGUARDS!!!!
Monday, September 7, 2009
Time to GO!
Its finally time to leave. I head down to Philadelphia for staging tomorrow and then get back on a bus and head up to JFK for our flight to Casablanca on the 9th. This requires a bit of back-tracking for me... driving down to Philadelphia only to drive right back up to New York a day later. I can't really bring myself to complain, though. I'm extremely excited to leave; one might say I have "ants in my pants". You know, the ones that make you squirm around because they are crawling everywhere and you can't seem to get them out. (As a side, I've never actually had ants in my pants. This could be a new experience I have in the Peace Corps. Who knows? I can't imagine it to be too comfortable though, which makes me wonder how that expression originated. AHA! I've found a topic for my next post!)
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Almost ready
I've never had a blog before... never thought that other people might have the slightest interest in the daily activities of my life. Consequently, I'll try to keep the writing to a minimum, only relaying the truly outstanding stories from my experience complemented by a plethora of photographs.